The Half Norfolk Gives your Wardrobe a Shot in the Arm
Sean Connery and his tailor return for Diamonds Are Forever (1971)
Following a brief sabbatical from MI6, Sean Connery returned to play the role of James Bond in 'Diamonds Are Forever' (1971). His wardrobe for the film was something of a departure from the pared-down understated look of the 60s, but the common thread was that celebrated British tailor, Anthony Sinclair, was again recruited to produce the clothes - just as he had done in all of Connery's previous appearances as 007.
Connery wearing Sinclair's Barleycorn Tweed Jacket in Goldfinger (1964)
Amongst the memorable pieces from the movie is a brown tweed sport coat. Connery's Bond was familiar with the type of cloth, having worn a Barleycorn Tweed Jacket in 'Goldfinger' (1964) while driving his Aston Martin DB5. The 'Diamonds Are Forever' fabric is a Herringbone design, signified by a distinctive repeat chevron pattern, and has mixed colour palette of black and tan with delicate hints of red, amber and green.
The elegant lines of Anthony Sinclair's Conduit Cut
The design of the garment is quite different to the classic 'hacking' style from Goldfinger. It is single-breasted (as with all of Connery's Bond tailoring) and retains Sinclair's signature 'Conduit Cut' features of soft shoulder, roped sleeve-head and gentle hourglass shape, but the three-button configuration was a first, as were the patch pockets with flaps.
Connery's tweed jacket contained several interesting elements
The sleeves have a two-button cuff (with football-style leather buttons) and a half-belt running across the back-waist. This type of coat is commonly known as a Half-Norfolk, having taken styling cues from the traditional Norfolk Jacket, originally used for shooting, which had a full-belted waist and two vertical pleats (front and back) for ease of movement.
Early examples of the 19th century Norfolk Jacket
The most unusual element of the 'Diamonds Are Forever' Half Norfolk is the collar detail, which is extended on both sides. Normally, this feature would only appear on the left hand side of the collar and incorporate a buttonhole, allowing it to be used as a storm-tab which would fasten to a button underneath the opposite end of the collar (when in the raised position). The tab could then be folded back on itself and buttoned away when not in use, resulting in the appearance of a regular collar. Sinclair's collar extensions clearly serve no practical purpose and were simply intended as a style feature.
The unusual collar extensions of Connery's coat
Connery's costume was completed with a black knit-shirt and black flannel trousers. The outfit has now been recreated with subtle styling updates. The new Anthony Sinclair Half-Norfolk retains the Conduit Cut shape, with three-button front and two-button cuff, half-belted waist and patch pockets with flaps, but a detachable throat-latch has been added as a detail to replace the collar extensions.
The new Anthony Sinclair Half-Norfolk Jacket
In a collaboration with Mr Fish, who originally introduced Connery to the Cocktail Cuff Shirts, a Black Jersey Popover Shirt has been design to complement the coat. Black Flannel Trousers are also available to complete the look, and comprise part of the 60-piece collection of essential spy-wear that is being unveiled throughout 2022 to celebrate six decades of Bond style.
Click here to view the collection.